The SS24 Balenciaga Show has shown us a Demna that is ready to fight back

A crowd full of icons and stars. Red drapes in a red-lit room. An orchestra piece turning into an upbeat techno soundtrack. Demna’s mom, Kim Kardashian , Amanda Lepore , fashion journalist Cathy Horyn and Balenciaga’s PR director Robin Meason. The SS24 Balenciaga Show brought back the savoir-fair of the early 2023 runways, with a never-seen before layer of vulnerability and craft. After a year of toned down and quite puritan shows, this one is a breath of fresh air we were all waiting for.

The stage From the early 2023 shows until the most recent Balenciaga Couture Show, the key color was white. Neutral shades were used to create a canvas for the clothes to shines. The Fall 23 show was literally on a white canvas and Spring 24 was a mini-movie that had the Balenciga headquarters as a backdrop: a neo-classic neutral building. Demna was making us shift the focus, resetting our perceptions: he gave himself a break and he have it to us too. A moment to breathe and reconnect with the core of fashion: clothes.

Then, all of a sudden, it gave us red.

Red is the color of passion, it’s the color of love, sex and blood. After a year of pure virgin white and a sacred approach to fashion and couture, we are now entering a more passional phase. While watching this show, I was thinking about one word: “voluptuous”. The curtains falling from the ceiling with all those strong shadows, piling on drapes: it was all very sensual. The lightning was red, the bouncing light was red: it reminded me of a boudoir.

For one year Balenciaga focused on going back to its roots, in a humble and respectful way. Now, Demna’s ready to shake things up again.

The sound At first, when I heard Elisabeth Uppert’s voice, one of Balenciaga’s recently appointed brand ambassadors (the other being PP Krit Amnuaydechkorn), I had flashbacks of the Spring 22 fashion show (the “Clones” one). The voice felt human yet cold: she was reading a piece on how to make a tailored jacket. A soulless description, accompanied by a sombre orchestra. Not very far from the sound design from the other shows. Then, after half of the show passed by, her voice changed, getting more and more anxious and obsessed. I felt it like an emotional confession by Demna .

obsessing on just clothes, perfecting them and making as luxurious as possible was becoming a trap.

The music also turned from a delicate orchestra into a heavy-hitting techno soundtrack (in perfect BFRND’s style): dystopic, angry, war-like. It felt like a liberation from the stereotypes of fashion Balenciaga has fallen for: quick shocking performances or very elaborated pieces of art. Both soulless in their way.

With the SS24 Balenciaga Show, Demna’s trying to spark a new love for fashion. A deeper and more visceral one.

The casting Balenciaga it’s well known for its very original choice of models: unconventional beautify, androgynous features, spectral traits. In 2022, it started recruiting big names (start or VIPS like Kim Kardahsian). The SS24 Balenciaga Show goes further down this path: Demna makes his loved ones walk down the runway, starting with his very own mother to fashion journalist, college professors, colleagues, VIPS aficionados (see KimK). It shows us that he has people by his side, supporting his vision — it’s a very strong political stance. Then, he gives us the most body shape variety Balenciaga has ever had on the runway. Then, the finale: Demna’s husband wearing a bride’s gown. It feels intimate, it feels personal.

with this casting, Demna brings Balenciaga to a place it has never been in the last decade: intimacy and affection.

Renewed Balenciaga This fashion show is a renaissance for Balenciaga and for Demna — after years of becoming one of the most influential brands thanks to shocking art shows and provocations and after a full year of going back to its roots in an almost religious way, the brand is ready to start again. The SS24 show feels mature and very mindful, intimate and mature. Balenciaga knows its roots, knows its place: it doesn’t abandon the whimsical cheeky quirkiness it had us accustomed to (see the reusable grocery bags spotted during the show or the extra huge sneakers ) but its ready to challenge what fashion is, has been and will be without further hesitation.

Images courtesy of Balenciaga. All copyrights belong to owners

The SS24 Balenciaga Show has shown us a Demna that is ready to fight back

The SS24 Balenciaga Show has shown us a more mature Demna